Day 3: Keld to Reeth – Proud Road Walker

I must admit to feeling some loneliness as I sat in my room at Keld Lodge last evening anticipating today’s walk to Reeth. All of my human contact thus far had been with the functionaries who make the world go ‘round – airline ticket agents, flight attendants, B&B proprietors and the like. All perfectly nice people but words between us were delivered and received with no true connection beyond what is needed to complete the routine task at hand. The single exception to this was the ten minute-long breakfast conversation yesterday in Kirkby Stephen with Pete the Englishman and Jeff from Florida as we conversed across the expanse of the breakfast room, each of us at our own table. The other residents at my Keld Lodge visit yesterday were a group of four Australian couples who were entirely self-sufficient in their own company so my meals were consumed at tables set for one.

So it was with great relief as I stepped out of my accommodation this morning to see none other then Jeff from Florida exiting the other B&B in town to begin his day’s journey. Overcome by the aforesaid loneliness and in a way that is not typical for my reticent character, I called out to him. He turned and recognized me as the guy at the next table from yesterday and he waited for me to catch up. Jeff is a 69 almost 70 year old retired salesman who worked for IBM after his discharge from the US Army. And he had a salesman’s gift for conversation. We walked together for the first six miles of today’s 12 mile walk learning much about each other’s life and family. We often underestimate the power of human connection. But that power is on full display when you find yourself feeling particularly alone as I did this morning before setting out. Human contact is a tonic for what ails ‘ya.

At the half-way point in a place called Gunnerside we parted company as Jeff took the steep course of the prescribed trail as we exited the village. Fearing a re-aggravation of my right foot tendonitis, I opted to stay low and level on the road to Reeth for the final six miles or so. But we met up for dinner tonight in his hotel, The Black Bull, which still serves delicious gluten free fish and chips that I’m sure my brother will remember.

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I have vivid memories of this segment of the walk from our experience three years ago. Leaving Keld, the trail starts out along the banks of the River Swale and meanders through grazing pastures populated by innumerable sheep. This being just after lambing season, most of the creatures were tiny with high pitched bleats as they sought out mama’s comfort and protection from the human intruders. Then there is a slightly treacherous section which tracks precariously at the top of a steep embankment. This stretch is essentially forested with old growth trees growing among moss-covered stones. Slippery! Mike had dubbed this as “Middle Earth” when we encountered it in 2023. But the scenery reverts to open pasture land for the final miles into Gunnerside. As I said, I was a road walker for most of the remaining miles to Reeth. About 3/4 of a mile before the goal I resumed the prescribed route and rejoined my ovine companions.

Now I am in my spacious if plain room at The Buck hotel that sits on the town square. I arrived shortly after 3PM and the bar on the first floor was jammed with customers drinking and conversing loudly. The woman behind the bar checked me in and accompanied me to Room 6 where I sit now. It is Friday and, of course, Friday is live music night at The Buck. While I can hear no words being sung, the beat of the music transmits very efficiently up two flights of stairs. But my fatigue is such that I doubt the ruckus will interfere with my sleep.

Tomorrow I will take my tired legs and sore foot and walk 14 miles over to Richmond. But the guide book describes this as a gentle walk with little in the way of elevation gain and that is how I remember it. So I’m looking forward to the walk and to the bustling town which certainly serves as the unofficial capital of Swaledale. And Jeff and I will meet up there once more. I wont trouble him to walk at my slow and easy pace. Jeff is a very fit man devoted to his exercise regimen and I don’t need to slow him down.