Day 8: Egton Bridge to Robin Hood’s Bay

This was the finale of this trip and my arrival at the slipway in Robin Hood’s Bay could not have been any more different from the experience that Mike and I had in 2023. When Mike  and I arrived then, the “end of the line” was busy with locals who were smoking and drinking in all of the space outside of the Bay Hotel. Only after retreating inside did several other hikers appear and a proper acknowledgement of the accomplishmen could take place.

Today I arrived alone and stayed that way.  NO ONE was at the ramp to sea and the bar at the hotel was sparsely populated. I descended the steep drive to the water through a ghost town! But I had a celebratory drink and then joined Jeff and Lisa for a quick dinner at Bramble’s Bistro after which we filmed and photographed each other as pebbles were tossed into the north Sea.

I am very tired so I wont post many words tonight. An election was made yesterday to take the alternate route that is now offered by Macs Adventures. So instead of crossing fields and woodlands to reach this place via Grosmont and Littlebeck, Jeff and I made our way to the big tourist town of Whitby to begin the trek along the coast. Jeff’s mate Liza was also there and then more decisions were made.  Jeff announced that his sore knee would require him to give up the up the walk and to hail a cab to Robin Hood’s Bay.  Liza said that she wanted to roam around Whitby before tackling the route.  Since it was almost noon, my decision was to exit Whitby by way of the Cinder Track which is essentially a multi-use path constructed along the path of an abandoned railroad bed.

It turned out that I chose the longer route. Once I reached Hawkster, I decided that I wanted to join the original C2C route prescribed by Wainwright and to track back towards the sea to experience that portion of the C2C that joins the Cleveland Way, another National Trail that follows the seashore along the tops of massive cliffs. This decision cost me at least one hour and two additional miles.  I am bone tired but I have no regrets. Walking along the promontories that undulate their way southward was just exhilarating.

Now I am settled into my B&B for the night. An Uber has been scheduled to take me to Scarborough in the morning.  I will catch a noon train to Manchester and I will bed down once more in a hotel to await my flights home on Friday.

Final thoughts:

• Every challenge teaches you something or things about yourself. For example, if disaster befalls you, its significance must be assessed on the basis of whether, after it happens, you are still breathing. Check and see.  If you’re still breathing then all is well. The only exception to this might be if the disaster takes the thing you breathe for.
• All experiences are new. Some people, myself included, asked why I would redo the Coast to Coast Path. The answer to that question comes when you do it. Experience is not redone. All experiences are new experiences.
• I won’t attempt another outing of this type: “Been there. “Done that.” Not a contradiction to the previous point. Rather it is an acknowledgement that the body ages and the sense of adventure needs to be adjusted accordingly.
• The right kind of solitude is truly liberating
• Stick to the socks that work. Don’t mess with success. Not a single blister or even a hot spot this time but compression socks are not needed.
• Stay in touch with those you love and who love you no matter where you go.
• I hope I raised some money and some awareness for the essential work done by the good people at McAuley Ministries
• Don’t neglect to bring your pebble to the slipway.
• Trust locals when they tell you that “Uber doesn’t come here.”  A “confirmed” Uber ride became a “Your trip has been canceled” ride ten minutes after I had to leave to meet my train in Scarborough. But all’s well that ends well. [see the post script]
• If an English novelist writes of parties on trains, believe it! [see the post script]
• The attachment of English people to three dogs defies understanding [see the post script]
• There’s no quiet time like the quiet time to be found in an empty church and no revival like that to be found in a full one – especially in these fraught times. Several times this week I found myself  choked with pride at the courage and goodness of the new Pope.

THE END

Start of the Cinder Track in Whitby

Progress

Sea Cliffs and the North Sea

Arrival

New friends

The actual end